John Norris Remembers
Since arriving in 1959, now retired farmer John Norris has been at the forefront of a great many restoration projects; Swaffham Prior is a very different village today. 30 years on, in 1989, John started to write some memoirs, and here is the first in a series of extracts from John Norris Remembers...
IT WAS IN EARLY APRIL 1959 that we first came to visit Swaffham Prior just thirty years ago. My first impression on crossing the then new lock gates at Upware was that we had arrive in a very depressed area of failed enterprise.
The narrow concrete road, cracked by the sinking fen, wandered through dead reeds and grasses containing the remains of many ancient bog oaks and machines.
Judging by the number of horse hay rakes there could not have been much arable farming done, at least in the past few years. As we got nearer to the village, the scene changed somewhat, in that there were fields of carrots still to be lifted and wheat already sown. It seemed a long way from Upware to Swaffham Prior, the five miles or so going slowly along that nine foot track. There was one reasonable feature on the landscape, two dragliners were at week, one on each side of the drain, leading to the new 1957 pump.
On arriving at Anglesey House, we met Christopher Parker, who had just been to see Mrs Kitchen. She was a sub-tenant of the house, and was to be offered Baldwin Manor as alternative accommodation.
Mr Parker then showed us round the farm, first by going up Caddenham Lane. Mr Ambrose had been muckcarting with his horse and cart, and the ruts up the drove were deep and muddy, until we came to a place where many red bricks had been tipped up and roughly levelled.. These came from the old fountain on the High Street, which Mr Woollard had just pulled down. I heard much about this in later times from local residents, who did not approve of its removal, but who would not contribute to its repair, or so I was told!
Woollard did not have much land on the heath as I do now (1989), and has he had a flock of sheep, there was a field of kale and some mangolds had been drilled.
The farm buildings at Caddenham Farm were looking very sad. The cottage had not been lived in for many years, John Goddard being the last incumbent, and they were candidates for demolition. The barn and yards had been used to fatten cattle that year, although the yards were empty when I arrived. In the side shed was an old mangold slicer driver by a Lister engine, and another engine in a little shed at the back drive a water pump. The field opposite the farm was farmed by Mr Ambrose, who did most of his work with the horses, and Ferguson petrol tractors.
After looking at the Highland, we then drove down the Fen to Adventurers' Farm. Here too, the place was sadly neglected. The farm buildings comprised several pig-sties, a small clunch barn and a wooden floored store. There was not a hard road anywhere, just mud and ruts. The farm house was no better, no warter or electricity. Harry Day, who lived there, was looking for a better place; in fact, he left our The Mr Parker employ shortly after we took the tenancy. The previous tenant was paying a rent of 50 shillings an acre I learned later, but Mr Parker was suggesting that this farm would attract a rent of at least £4.50.
The railway line was in use, with steam trains going between Cambridge and Mildenhall twice a day, and a goods service when required. Mr Bettes was the station master. The line went up a chalk gradient on its way to Cambridge in order to pass over the Lode at Swaffham Bulbeck. The chalk for this embankment came from the cutting towards Burwell, and was carted to Swaffham Prior on a light railway in tubs pulled by horses. The track for this was afterwards cut up and sued as fencing stakes for the line. The wear on the track is clearly visible on the stakes that are remaining.
The date on the few remaining sleepers is 1884, giving an idea of the age of the line. In the station yard were several sidings and a high-level dock. It was helpful when loading beet to have the truck in this dock, as all the beet had to be thrown in by hand.: it was so much easier. I never had much luck getting the truck in the dock, perhaps because the dozen eggs or rabbit were not delivered in time!
We did not use the railway much, as road transport was so much easier, but the railway did reduce the price to try and encourage us to use the service. Later on, we did load beet using our trailers and an elevator. As the beet fell into the truck in the middle opposite the doors, most of the dirt landed there also. On one occasion the factory decided there was too much dirt in the sample and rejected the truck and sent it back to Swaffham Prior for us to unload and clean. This time Mr Betts was more helpful! He suggested that the load, which was not too bad, be sent back to the factory but routed through Mildenhall. This would ensure that the other door was opened at the factory, and all would be well - which it was. The only other use the railway had for us was the carriage of potatoes. The double humping of these bags was a chore we all accepted, but were glad when the lorries cam direct to the farm. Even then, these bags were often carried on our backs over a plank across the drain to the lorry.
Many merchants used the TK Bedford lorries built to carry six tons, with a special back axle to enable them to carry ten tons. Not what we would sanction today!
During the summer when the steam trains were running there were several fires along the line. It was always a danger near harvest time on the section towards Cambridge as the bank was covered with grasses and brambles. During the winter of 1961, the electricity people had parked their van on the crossing down Driest Drove. They often did this as the drive was very muddy and the crossing nice and clean, being made of sleepers. The evening train expected the gates to be open, but as it was foggy the train proceeded and went through the gates and the van! Nobody was injured as the train was going quite slowly having just stopped at the station. About 1972, the same thing happened in Soham, when a very nice young man was killed. Bob Betterworth who was the Chager rep left his car on the crossing while he changed his boots to go rabbit shooting, forgot about the trains, and was run over.
Continued next month, when demolition of the church porch leads to the discovery of a strange message buried in the wall, still a mystery today.